Even if Pia was hurried, she would take her time to prepare the space. Always mindful of the rituals: thumb-to-forefinger, whispered invocations and warm hands to prepare the body and soul.

“I didn’t even know what basil and lemongrass looked like,” exclaims Apple Kitaphanich, aghast at her initial ignorance. “Or what to do with them.”

“Because I’m fearless, I don’t worry about not being successful. I don’t worry about not being the best. A lot of people don’t do things because they are afraid of being judged. I just want to do things.”

My grandmother was not a good cook. Her curry contained everything necessary: salt, spices, freshly ground masala and chillies. Plenty of vegetables swam in it, usually accompanied by fish. However,…