The fresh, large prawns were not only succulent but relentlessly teased the palate. Buried amid heaps of birds-eye chillies and chopped lemon grass, the Tom Yam Prawns arrived piping hot at our table. In a fresh green coconut. The prawns were slightly spicy, a tad sour and very sweet as they had been cooked in fresh coconut water.

We found Restoran Hock Lay in Ulu Yam Baru by accident as we were driving past. It was still early evening, yet people were already enjoying their dinner – with their fingers. Each table had a fresh green coconut with its top sliced off and prawns spilling out.

What a find! The moist crab flesh was bursting out of its claws and confines, tasting distinctly of the special homemade chillie paste. The Claypot Chillie Kangkung was another revelation, its humble vegetable potential more than realised. The pork ribs, well coated with sauce but slightly chewy, flew off the table, too.